Hello,
Thank you for being so interested in tools suitable for USM furniture.
I am Benjamin Stahl and an enthusiast for system furniture.
The furniture can be adapted to your living situation and converted accordingly. I make these special tools so that you too can expand, move or dismantle your furniture.
I have compiled information on the following topics:
I hope that I can help you with this information and clear up any confusion.
I offer two different basic principles.
Plug-in tool systems
The plug-in systems are ultra compact, fit in every tool case, are always with you and even tight spaces and ceiling heights are no problem for this type of tool. I offer the variant in:
Box with appropriately cut foam inserts so that every tool is in its place and you know at a glance whether everything is there. This set is available with or without a rubber hammer, if you already have one.
Tool case (the complete package) also with appropriately cut foam inserts and all the special tools you need.
Non-pluggable tool systems
T-key - the classic with T-handle for the longest tubes (75 cm) of the furniture
T-key - the classic with a T-handle for the longest tubes (75 cm) of the furniture + a short T-key for the shorter tubes (35 cm)
L-key - the budget version with an L-handle, also for the longest tubes (75 cm) of the furniture
Basically, all of my tools can be used for assembling or disassembling furniture. For example, the long wrench can be used to loosen the screws on short pipes, but it is much more comfortable to work with the more extensive sets and the wrench in the "right length". This saves time and nerves in the heat of the moment (moving).
Still unsure which tool you really need? Here is an overview with pictures and further information.
The best way to proceed is as follows:
Remove all doors and flaps. This can be done using a standard Phillips screwdriver.
Remove all shelves (intermediate shelves) by pushing out the shelf starting from one corner! Be careful, sometimes shelves are secured with a screw from below! Remove these screws first, of course. A rubber hammer can also be helpful for removal.
Now you have the "bare" pipe basic structure. Now loosen the screws through the balls with the 4 mm hexagon bit (turn clockwise). Start where it makes the most sense for you (from top to bottom, from left to right, from right to left)
Pull the connectors (expansion elements) out of the pipes using the magnetic connector puller. Sometimes the connectors get jammed in the pipes. This often happens when the screws are tightened very tightly or when they have not been opened for a long time. If the connectors are jammed, I have prepared a video for you on how to release the jam. It works best with a rubber hammer, which gives an "impulse" to the pipe so that the pipe deforms briefly. Don't worry, the pipe is so stable that it immediately springs back to its original state, the "wedges" in the connector are moved and released.
Loosen the screws through the pipe using the long Allen key (counterclockwise).
Point 4: Loosen the screws through the balls (clockwise)
Point 5: Loosen the screw through the pipe (counterclockwise)
From around 1990 there was a fundamental change in furniture. The change affected the expansion elements (connecting elements) in the tube.
The 1st generation consists of two half-shells with prongs that wedge into the tube as soon as the screw is tightened. This system was replaced with the second generation system, which is much easier to manufacture.
The 2nd generation consists of two "sheets" that are clamped together. From the side it looks like a Christmas tree. The advantage of these connectors is that they hold together when the furniture is assembled without any manual intervention.
Both connectors use exactly the same screws. For this reason, my tool is compatible with all USM furniture.
Only my magnetic connector puller is only compatible with the second generation.
It is easy to see which generation you are dealing with if you loosen the screw through the ball and compare it with these pictures.
Normally no. Unfortunately you have to completely dismantle one half. There is an exception if a "slotted pipe" has been installed. These slotted pipes have a recess at the end of the pipe so that you can get to the screw heads even when the pipe is installed. Maybe you'll be lucky. If not, it might make sense for you to get these slotted pipes for the subsequent assembly and place them in strategically favorable positions.
Sometimes the screws are really tight. This is usually because:
You are turning the screw in the wrong direction
Please remember: Loosen the screw through the ball clockwise.
Through the pipe anti-clockwise.
An impact wrench was used to assemble the furniture.
If the screw cannot be loosened with the small Allen key provided, I have included an Allen bit. You can grab and turn this with a ratchet from any socket box or with a pipe wrench. Using an impact wrench for disassembly, if you have one, is also fine, as long as you pay attention to the direction of rotation. As soon as the screw is loosened a little, you can use the small Allen key again.
Sometimes the connectors get jammed in the pipes. This often happens when the screws are tightened very tightly or when they have not been opened for a long time. If the connectors are jammed, I have prepared a video for you on how to release the jam. It works best with a rubber hammer, which gives an "impulse" to the pipe so that the pipe deforms briefly. Don't worry, the pipe is so stable that it immediately springs back to its original state, the "wedges" in the connector are moved and released.
First press in one side (left or right). Then press in the other side (hit with the flat of your hand or with a rubber hammer if necessary)
T or L-key set
It's very simple for the T and L keys. The long T or L keys are for loosening or tightening the screws through the pipe (5 mm hexagon socket).
The small hexagon socket key or the hexagon socket bit is needed to loosen the screw through the ball. If you don't have a ratchet, the hexagon socket bit can be held and turned using a pipe wrench, for example.
The connector puller can simply be put on the T or L key. It can be used to pull the loosened connector out of the pipe. You can read how to loosen the connectors in the "The connector cannot be loosened!" section.
Plug-in tool
With the plug-in tool, the ratchet must be connected to the extension. The hexagon socket insert is then attached. The screw can now be opened or tightened through the pipe.
The small hexagon socket wrench or hexagon socket bit in the bit holder is needed to loosen or tighten the screw through the ball. The hexagon socket in the bit holder can be used with the ratchet instead of the extension.
The connector puller can simply be put on the hexagon socket insert. The loosened connector can be pulled out of the pipe with it. You can read how to loosen the connectors in the section "The connector cannot be loosened!"
Does the piece of furniture have riveted intermediate struts/cross beams between the shelves?
The cross beams were previously used for a hanging file drawer. The struts are riveted to the front and rear tubes. This means that they can only be dismantled as a whole. You can replace the relevant tubes or reinstall them as a whole. The floor shelves also have a notch for the rails. These can continue to be used as long as the easily visible recesses do not cause any problems.
This video shows how to remove the slotted tubes.
Simply use a 5 mm Allen key with a ball head to open the screws through the slotted tubes.
Unfortunately not. The tool is only suitable for furniture with balls as corner connectors.
For the tables with two legs in the KITOS series, a 10 mm Allen key with a length of approx. 500 mm is required. This can be done with a standard extension from a socket box.
For the standard tables with four legs, an 8 mm Allen key is used if there is one screw or a 6 mm Allen key if there are two screws. Any Allen key from an Allen set from the hardware store can be used here. A suitable video can be found here on YouTube
The best way to proceed is as follows:
Assemble the basic frame consisting of the tubes and the corner connectors (balls)
Click the shelves into the frame (use a rubber hammer if it is not easy enough).
Assemble flaps and doors.
This video shows how the slotted tubes can be installed.
Simply use a 5 mm Allen key with a ball head to close the screws through the slotted tubes. If you are planning to move house in the future, I recommend using the slotted tubes to divide the furniture into manageable units.
This video shows how to install the second generation folding doors.
Prepare the hinges by inserting the screws through the hinge and the black L-shaped spacer
Insert the L-shaped aluminum block into the shelves and attach the retaining plates
Screw the hinge to the aluminum block
Attach and screw the folding door
These two videos show how to install the pull-out doors:
There are four types of tubes:
Standard tube
Tube with a hole for screwing the shelves (Especially with the 750 mm shelves, the stability increases enormously if they are screwed in the middle. Simple sheet metal screws are used for this.)
Tube with a slot for dividing large pieces of furniture in the middle
Tube with a milled recess (These tubes are usually simply clamped into desks so that no annoying front struts have to be installed. They prevent the legs from being compressed.)
They are available in the following system dimensions: -100mm -150mm -175mm -250mm -350mm -395mm -500mm -750mm
(The system dimension is the distance from ball center to ball center, the actual tube length is approx. 18 mm shorter than the system dimension.)
There are three variants of connectors.
Connector (1st generation) two wedge halves are clamped together by the screw. This system was sold in this way until around 1995, but was replaced by the "second generation" due to better assembly and disassembly. The wedge halves are usually yellowish, but there are now replicas on the market with a grayish color.
Connectors (2nd generation) these connecting elements consist of two bent sheets of metal that are interlocked and spread out accordingly by the screw (the same screw as in the first generation). Viewed from the side, the wedge structures have a Christmas tree shape. These connectors are easier to handle than the first generation because they can also be assembled with one hand. Unfortunately, these connectors have the problem that the sheets cannot be easily removed if they are tightened very tightly or are spread out for a long time.
Connector (2nd generation with power connection) this connecting element is based on the 2nd generation connector, but has a feature that enables power transmission. This system is relatively new and has been on the market since around 2018. This makes it possible to place lamps or USB ports in the tubes. However, the handling is the same as with the second generation connector.
There are basically the following versions of shelves:
Unperforated (side shelves) - These shelves are used on all sides or visible surfaces.
Perforated (intermediate shelves) - The perforation is necessary to attach hinges, for example
Shortened shelf - The shelves are also available in a "shortened version". The shortened version is approx. 20 mm (2 cm) shorter than the "unshortened" shelves. This creates a gap on the left and right. They are needed if the flap is installed with a pull-out. The pull-out hinges fit exactly into this gap. A little tip - the gap in the shortened shelves can also be used to lead out cables.
There are also recently shelves with all kinds of notches, for example to lead out cables, as a perforated sheet variant or there is now even a variant with notches for flower pots
There are two types of hinges for folding doors:
Hinges with hydraulic dampers (1st generation) - Unfortunately, the seals of the hydraulic dampers become porous over time and the dampers lose their function. For this reason, they have been redesigned and the new hinges work with a spring band.
Hinges with spring band are the second and current generation. They are durable and easier to install.
Slide-in flap hinges are folded upwards and the flaps are then pushed in at the top. They are available in two versions:
Hinges with hydraulic dampers (1st generation)
Hinges with spring band (2nd generation)
If you have any questions or concerns, please contact me at Robelfrobel@StahlBenjamin.de or via Whatsapp at: +49 151 2022 9861
